Ok so perhaps a stretch on the Niel Young lyrics but the sentiment sure is there. It would totally rock to live on Mt Veeder like the Fontanella’s. You see Jeff and wife Karen have something of a paradise property where Jeff crafts some exceptional wines for his own label, as well as for custom crush clients.
I first met Jeff back in 2005 at a wine tasting where he told me of his plans of starting Fontanella Family Winery. Our paths would not cross again until I tasted the Fontanella Zinfandel at the 19th Annual ZAP Grand Zinfandel tasting. I was so impressed that I called the winery and asked for an interview. What I found was pleasant combination of great wines and value.
But before we get there, lets back up and find out where it all started. Jeff Fontanella is a very talented winemaker, all of 33 years of age. He hails from Southern California where he was born and raised. He headed north to attend college at UC Davis. He had originally planned on going into medicine, but as life has a habit of doing, his plans took a detour. He met with his advisor who recommend that he take some alternative classes and ended up suggesting a wine appreciation class. Being only 18 at the time he of course thought this would be a “great way to drink in class” but this naturally was not the case and he soon discovered that wine had a lot to do with chemistry and science. That is what really got him hooked. You see, as Jeff himself puts it “I love science and I came at this from a scientific perspective, opposed to from a purely creative angle.” This does not mean that Jeff’s wines are by any means clinical, quite to the contrary, but we will get to that later.
After graduation from UC Davis he spent time at Opus One, ZD Wines, and Saddleback Cellars honing his winemaking skills. Not too shabby to say the least. Then with a dream of being his own boss, he and his new bride Karen decided in 2005 to start a winery of their own and found a beautiful 26 acre property on top of Mount Veeder. In 2008 the winery was completed and the Fontanella Family brand launched. Now try and remember that Jeff is only 32 at this point! Quite an accomplishment right?!
As Jeff points out the property currently has no vines planted. “We are in the process of evaluating the site potential.” I can tell from the tone of his voice that
he is pretty excited about the possibilities. He says that most people are under the wrong impression that since Mount Veeder is close to Carneros it is too cool for Cabernet and Merlot but he points out that according to his observations it is in fact 200 degree days warmer then Oakville (arguably one of the best sites for Cabernet in Napa) with warmer mornings and no fog. In addition the soil make up is of clay and gravel with some shale and volcanics. A perfect recipe for merlot and cabernet sauvignon on this site.
I am a big fan of small wineries because they tend to be more authentic, welcoming and what I always imagined wineries to be like. If you happen to have to opportunity to visit Karen tells me that either “Jeff or I will greet you.” No 70 year old retired HR executive who is passing the waning years of his life pouring wines will bore you here. You are getting al the passion and knowledge right from the owner. Tasting from the barrel is also a regular part of the experience. Karen also shares that one of the perks of being a wine club member is the opportunity to play winemaker by being able to blend a case of your own wine. The winery will send you the blending kit with a suggested blend, however you are free to come up with your own. Once you finalized your home blend you let the winery know and they follow your recipe and bottle your wine with your own label. How cool is that? Not your regular wine club!
Time for the wines:
2008 Chardonnay
Pale gold in color with aromas of citrus, ripe peaches, green apple and vanilla beans. On the palate the texture is creamy with flavors of baked apple and pear backed with citrus and tropical notes. The oak is well integrated and does not dominate. Acid is in balance with the fruit flavors. And even though the wine has 14.5% alcohol (high by my standards) it seems to work. This wine exhibits balance and poise. This wine reminds me of a Miles Davis jazz piece; sultry, complex and seamless.
Jeff says that the goal for this chardonnay was show the tipicity of the vineyard site. The two clones of chardonnay used are Wente (sourced from Mt Veeder) and Dijon (sourced from Carneros vyds). To keep the acid only 10% of the wine was allowed to go through ML. This is a great effort and delivers good value at $30.
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Bursting with a deep ruby core and a medium ruby rim. Aromas of vanilla pod, clove, tobacco leaf, crème de cassis and eucalyptus on the nose. The palate shows a pleasant creamy texture, medium body, medium minus acid, and supple tannins. Flavors of cocoa powder, smoke, tar, black cherry, plums and black berries. All the components are nicely balanced and culminate in a long elegant and complex finish. Imagine Natalie Portman in a low-slung evening gown and you get what this wine is aiming for.
Jeff notes that the wine was filtered but not fined, something he does with all his reds. $49
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt Veeder. (not yet released)
Deep ruby core that fades to a ruby rim. On the nose licorice, black cherries, cassis, dried flowers, chocolate, coffee and vanilla. Shows more complexity on the nose then the 2006. The palate reveals well-structured tannins that are grippy and backed by nice acid that gives the fruit a lift. Flavors of blackberry, bilberry, chocolate, cedar, smoke, and dried herbs. Again as with all Jeff’s wine the texture of this wine is just fabulous. The finish is long and complex with a full body. This is a wine that is going to need some time. One for the cellar for sure, if you have the patients! If the 2006 is Natalie Portman then the 2007 is Beyonce in a wetsuit; you see all the curves and it’s a bit tight. $49
Now onto the wine that was the impetus for this post.
2008 Zinfandel
Vibrant ruby core with an almost electric ruby rim. Medium intense aromas of raspberry, cassis, strawberry and red plums with hints of vanilla, soy sauce, tomatoes and cedar. Flavors of black cherry, cola, chocolate, raspberry syrup and sweet black fruits are balanced by silky well integrated tannins, nice acid lift, nice texture and body. Alcohol does not dominate as it does in so many Zinfandels. This is an elegant Zin and a great example of just how great a carefully crafted zin can be. Reminds me of what I imagine Vin Diesel would be like if he had gone to finishing school. $36
Jeff believes in using American Oak for his Zinfandels because he feels it lends itself better to the grape then French oak. A cooper in Australia of all places makes the oak barrels he uses, kind of ironic that wood is felled in the US, shipped to Australia where they are turned into barrels only to be shipped back to the US.
Jeff was also kind enough to thief me some 08 Cabernets from barrels. Now these wines will end up being blended together but it was sure telling to see what each specific site contributes to the whole. If and when you visit, which I highly recommend you do, you too will be able to sample from the barrel with Jeff.
The wine that Jeff was most excited to show me was the 2008 yet to be named single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from one of Andy Beckstoffer’s vineyard located next to Caymus winery in Rutherford. Let me tell you this thing ROCKS! I can’t wait to taste it once it has been bottled.
What struck me about all these wines was the quality, texture, and the humane pricing. These are wines of value and quality, made that much more enjoyable by their price. They could easily cost more, but Jeff and Karen seem committed holding their price at reasonable levels. This should stand as an example to other wineries in Napa.
Jeff and Fontanella Wines are both rising stars and worth a first, second and third look.
Cheers,
ChrisO
